Because we had to get up at 3.15am I dreamt about oversleeping and missing our flight. After the 17th of these dreams I woke up, checked the time in a panic, and discovered it was only 2.30am.
Thus ended the sleeping. At least we'd had the good sense to crash out early. Some people on the bus had stayed up until after 11pm.
The buses to the airport were organised by Princess as part of the Great Wall tour, and even included breakfast of a muffin, apple, nashi pear, a carton of milk, half a ham and cheese sandwich and a yoghurt without a spoon. The fruit and muffin did not survive the trip to the airport.
Traffic at 4am was mercifully light, and we made it in about half an hour. Our guide told us stories about the new zero-alcohol laws for drivers. It seems when the cops set up the booze testing the locals come out with stools and snacks for a few hours of free entertainment such as watching drivers doing manic switches with their passengers, or locking their cars and running away (locked car = traffic fine, drunk driving = prison).
The local TV stations interview arrestees sometimes, and ask them why they drove while under the influence. One driver's answer was "I'm a scientist, and I wanted to see if driving drunk was dangerous. I proved it's very, very dangerous."
We were leaving via Terminal 2, but Princess had arranged for all the passengers' luggage to be placed at Terminal 3. We bailed to find our luggage, and found two out of three.
Uh-oh.
After 10 to 15 minutes of increasingly frantic searching Emma found our last bag tucked behind a few pieces of taller luggage. Relief.
Back on the bus to Terminal 2, wondering how we'd occupy the next three hours. Turns out there was plenty to do.
Booking in was easy enough, getting our cabin luggage wasn't. We'd forgotten to repack Emma's cosmetics into our main bags, and security told us we couldn't take them onboard.
So I had to take the offending bag back to Counter E at the other end of the terminal to check it in. Apparently we'd exceeded our limit, so I'd have to pay to check in an extra bag. Only I'd left my wallet with Emma.
Back across the airport, through passport control, then security, pick up my wallet, and return to Counter E. Yes, they take Visa, but I need to pay for it at Counter A. Next to security.
Once more I trudge across the airport, make the payment, and take the receipt back to Counter E, through passport control, then security (the guy stamping my ticket for the third time looking at me like I'm an idiot), and finally rejoining Emma.
Between the cold-weather jacket I wore into the airport, the rushing, the stress, and an aircon system set to "melt" my shirt is fairly well drenched with sweat by the time I set off the metal detector. I have a great deal of sympathy for the guard who had to run the hand scanner over me. My Adventure! had turned into Danger! for her.
That was our last drama, fortunately. Hong Kong Express is an excellent airline. It's clean, everything works (we had an unfortunate and very long flight to Canada several years ago where the entertainment system packed up. Very, very long.), and most incredible of all, had flight attendents who came promptly and even treated us like paying customers, not annoying pests who were rude enough to interrupt their flight by asking for a glass of water.
Emma managed to sleep about half the flight, while I watched "Hai Mian Bao Bao"* on the Chinese kid's channel.
Although Hong Kong is part of China, due to China's "One Nation Two Systems" policy it's still treated like a separate country. This meant that even though we were still in China we had to go through immigration and customs again. The line was terrifyingly long, but the process seemed to consist of a quick glance at visitors' passports, visitor cards, followed by a stamp in the passports, so we churned through the line in no more than 10-15 minutes.
We caught a taxi to our hotel, which was around $350. No need to panic on our behalf; I'm happy to say that's $350 Hong Kong dollars, which is around $50 US. Pretty much every time we'd see a bill we'd choke, then remember to do the mental math. Still catches us out.
The Jia Hotel is delightful boutique hotel on the east side of Hong Kong Island, a short walk from Victoria Park. Although it's only a street away from the glossy shopping centres it still has enough of the older shops and apartments to capture some of the flavour of old Hong Kong. Not "old, old" - most of the pre 19th century buildings are long gone - but old enough to have that pre-modern feel.
Around 2pm we crashed, hard. Two hours later we woke up, I turned to Emma, and asked "what country are we in?"
I was thinking Japan. Seriously. I had even less of an idea what time or day it was. It's been a long time since I was that disoriented.
Our friends Keith and Leona came to meet us that evening - he's originally from England, she's from Hong Kong, and they moved here from Sydney two years ago - and took us to dinner at Dragon King, a famous Cantonese-fusion restaurant with great views across the harbour towards Kowloon.
The meal was superb, a problem to be encountered again and again over the following days. Too much good food, nowhere near enough self-control. My belt is notched to the "contain explosion" setting.
It was tremendous catching up with them again, and we exchanged animated and alcoholically enhanced stories about what we've all been up to over the last couple of years.
They've been able to juggle work commitments for the next few days, and have offered to show us some of their favourite parts of Hong Kong. I hoped we might be able to spend a bit of time with them, but two full days was more than I could reasonably expect, and we were very appreciative.
On the way up to the restaurant we'd seen this brilliantly garish Japanese-style entertainment parlour for young people. On the way down we had to stop in.
I loved it. It was full of insanely coloured overbright machines crammed with stuffed toys and costume bling that the kids can win *if they just have one more try getting that stupid claw to fall in the right place*, high-speed basketball shooting machines, cheesy photograph booths...
Hilarious.
Then we had a walk to help dinner settle (it didn't work), wandering through Victoria Park, dodged a few joggers, and came back to our room.
Plans for the next day were to see more of Hong Kong Island: Stanley, The Peak, Shueng Wan and Kennedy Town at the other end of the island.
Little did we know that the next day would be more Adventure! and Danger! than we ever dreamed possible.
* "Spongebob Squarepants" in Mandarin. An experience every native English speaker should have at least once in their lives.